Rappelling atc vs figure 8. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here.
- Rappelling atc vs figure 8. Jul 12, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. You could rappel single strand down a rope that has been rigged as a contingency anchor (with a figure 8, munter-mule, or ATC). However, the F8 should be used as an ascender with great care as the rope may become unset and the technique will no longer function. Fixing the line in the middle doesn't eliminate the need for the knots, it just eliminates having two independent rope systems. Then if it is loaded it cross-loads the gate and can easily break it due to leverage. The Figure 8 The Figure 8 is the simplest and lightest belay devices you can use. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. To rig the releasable figure 8 block: Thread the rope through the quick link or rappel ring. When 8's came out i didn't like them. Sep 21, 2023 · Many people still belay with non-assisted braking devices like the ATC-XP. Nov 23, 2024 · I’ve been rappelling out of my tree for years. Figure 8s are more popular for rappelling than they are for belaying, due to the ease of increasing the speed that the rope moves by Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. Fusion Titan Terminal 8 Descender The figure 8 device is designed for user to control their descent by varying the tension held by the hand holding the free/break rope below the device. How to Rappel It is highly recommended to have a spotter as your rappel buddy on the ground. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. Is one of these devices simpler/more user friendly than Sep 24, 2024 · Devices like the Madrocks automatically stay in a locked position and allow you to hang in place until you pull the level to belay/rappel yourself down. I don't think most people remember how to use them for rappel and belay. Dec 22, 2023 · While rappelling, you modulate the friction on the rope to control the speed of your descent. It has been amazing. This is due to the fact that figure 8, which is intended for rappelling, has dimensions adapted for two strands of rope, because that is used for How to Rope in using Figure 8? Figure 8 is one of the oldest and Basic Descender devices not only used for Fast/SPort Rapell but also for Anchoring and Rope Apr 4, 2008 · I have recently used the atc. Common Errors When Rappelling with an ATC- and How to Avoid Them Rappelling with an ATC is not complicated; however, the repetitive and simple nature of rappelling sometimes leads people to make careless mistakes. Petzl Grigri 2 - Best Overall Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender - Best Multi-functional Petzl Stop Descender Black Diamond ATC-Guide Black Diamond ATC XP - Best Value Read our complete buyers guide for belay devices. I created the following guide to teach everything you have to know to use one. Slowly release the brake strand until the Mule Hitch slides down into the Figure 8 and halts your descent. Similar in function to an ATC, but with a lot more friction options. The use of belay devices such as GriGri vs. I do find my pouch for my rappelling gear seems to get in my way if I need to turn for a weakside shot or a drop shot. Whether you use belay device in belaying climbers or rappelling, teethed channel creates more friction in braking and allow Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. However, I have seen in some Pine Creek videos people rappelling with figure 8s. Tie a stopper knot in the end. If you opt to use something totally retro like a figure 8 or ye ol’ hip belay, you’ll be kindly asked to rent an ATC. What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. I can utilize a smaller diameter rope with the figure 8. It does literally everything else wonderfully. Disadvantage of figure 8, when used as a belay device, is its small braking effect. Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. I want to use a figure 8. You could rappel double strand down a retrievable rope that is isolated (with a stone knot, stone eight, figure 8, joker, or jester). Thank you. Mar 26, 2020 · Step 3: First person rappelling goes on rappel, single strand, blue rope. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. k. There's a ton of devices to use to get out of the tree: Figure 8, ATC, Belay devices, and you can always just rappel using a munter hitch. Sep 29, 2023 · The figure-8 device is a classic tool for rock climbing. Double Slots construction, belay device offers effective braking to half, twin and single ropes, 8 - 11mm. Sep 8, 2023 · At the end of the day, whether you use 11mm, 9mm, 8mm rope, an ATC, Figure 8, Rig, Grigri, or a Safeguard, (all good gear), KNOW YOUR GEAR and how to make it safe for your application. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device Here is my much BETTER video about this topic: • THIRD HAND with a Rescue/Figure 8 Descende In this episode, I go over some basic climbing techniques used with a RESCUE EIGHT (8) DESCENDER. abseiling or "rapping") is an important technique that every new climber should learn and learn well. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. 5K 630K views 6 years ago 10 WAYS OF SETTING UP A FIGURE 8 RAPPEL DEVICEmore Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. Dec 11, 2020 · A complete guide to all things rappelling gear. The rappel device you deploy will depend on your specific scenario. Reply reply SprawloutBoy • Oct 24, 2024 · I decided that I am going to try rappelling. Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing adopts new extended rappel and belay techniques in basic and intermediate courses. You could rappel double strand down a rope rigged with the toss 'n go method. Girth Hitch Method This method is best employed when you have a foothold that allows you to take your weight off the rappel rope for a moment. Jul 26, 2021 · Ok. There are, however, some added complications to canyoneering that these all-around belay devices don’t handle as well as more specialized gear will. Jul 12, 2025 · The figure 8 is a rappel and belay device which most gear companies over the years have manufactured in one form or another. Despite the constant improving of canyoning descenders, the figure of 8 is still a fundamental device, and in my opinion everyone should master it before moving on to more ergonomic variants. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber's descent, or one's own descent when rappelling. On the FAQ for my gym they say: Tell us about belay devices! Dealer’s choice! You can use ATC’s, Gri-Gri’s, cinches… pretty much any modern belay device is ok with us as long as you know how to use it properly. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way It functions as a block because it lets you rappel single strand and because you don't have to remove the releasable figure 8 block before the last person rappels down. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Feb 12, 2024 · We reviewed over 9 belay devices for this article. Sure it's expensive, but it's undoubtedly safer than an ATC in trained hands. I was a Figure 8 guy for a long time, but swapped around a lot. For beginners to rappelling I like to offer and SBG II made by Omega pacific. Rappelling is often the only way to get down from a route. Rappelling is quick and very safe if done properly. Sold in assorted colors. Classic rappel devices, such as an ATC or a Figure 8, will work just fine (and we’ll get to them later). Some of y’all commented on my safeguard post. com Dec 10, 2020 · I’ve read on climbing sites that rappelling with a figure 8 causes twists in the rope, and might damage with long term use or at the least give you trouble when packing up the rope. https://www. After gaining experience i really liked them. 1OZ, an ultra-light, compact and easy-to-use V-grooved belay device with teethed channel, ideal choice for you climbers to lighten rack. Rappelling is definitely the easier and to me safer way to go. May 19, 2022 · It is quite rare for climbers to use a Figure 8 style device for everyday climbing/belaying. Made of metal, it has a top hole and a larger bottom hole, and contains no moving parts. You could rappel double strand down a rope that has been rigged as a contingency anchor (with a figure 8 or ATC). The classic figure-8 belay device is approved for rappel, and many climbers believe it's more suited to that than belay. While I don’t believe in setting hard and fast rules such as you must always rappel with a Prusik, I do think giving yourself the option is an excellent idea. If you go the figure 8 route (inexpensive and tried and true option) please make two wraps on the figure (rescue mode) A single wrap wont take enough of the friction with you being a heavy dude. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident. I started with a crabiner for rappelling and still use them occasionally. Couple questions from what I’ve found. See full list on scoutorama. You could rappel single strand down one side of a simul rappel. (Harness and third hand / autoblock not shown for clarity. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes A prussik knot is one of the easiest and most important knots that you can tie while rappelling. Included: Rappelling gear list, what is rappelling, rappelling styles and more! Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. Using the CRITR or Pivot as a backup for efficiency is a good idea, especially considering your experience in the Blue Mountains. You can go a lot faster while still feeling in control compared to an ATC or rappel ring. Dec 18, 2012 · The Petzl Pirana is a Figure Eight based rappel device made specifically for canyoneering. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Your VT prusik and regular prusiks are reliable for ascending too. To break as you descend lower the right hand below the waist while Jan 23, 2012 · ATC, figure 8, Pirana, sterling ATS? I like the Petzl Pirana or the Sterling ATS the most. On most devices, descent speed is controlled by varying the angle of and force applied to the rope after it exits the device going downward (the "brake Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Lower the rope until it reaches the ground. In which case you ought to use any one of the modern ATC equivalents. Besides arresting the fall of a climber, these devices can also be used for rappelling. So, no mechanical devices in my setup - no GriGri, Mad Rock, etc. I also plan on learning the munter/caribiner for emergencies, but figure-8 is plan A. The only reason I can think of that you would choose a standard 8 vs a rescue 8 is weight but its so minor I You could rappel single strand down either side of a retrievable rope that is isolated (with a stone knot, stone eight, figure 8, joker, or jester). ATC in climbing, rappelling, and belaying activities has become popular with climbers and is a great innovation for climbing. Been using an 11mm static line with an original GriGri. However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices. As an avid climber, I am comfortable setting up climbing anchors and rappelling with an ATC. Check out the CMC CLUTCH - replaces your Figure 8 Descender if you have $749 to spare. We used Figure 8 rings on a trip to southern Utah in February on a wet, sandy canyoneering trip with 4 different rappels. Jun 30, 2020 · The canyoning descender has a hybrid design and is an evolution of other classic rappel devices such as the Figure 8, which is still being used by some members of the community mostly due to its cheaper price range. Apr 27, 2024 · In reply to saturn: It is spelt " braking". Spend one extra minute before stepping over the ledge to confirm that everything is set up correctly. It’s available in many colors and can accommodate a rope diameter between 7. It allows for smooth rope action while you are belaying. a. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. How can I lower my ATC? 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on The only thing a Gri-gri doesn't do is double-line rappel. It's great for TR, sport, trad, bigwall, whatever. Below are the best belay devices that made our short list. Apr 6, 2021 · Is anyone using a basic figure 8 device to rapel? With a prusik already on the tether to be used as backup seems like the simplest and cheapest option to rapel after one sticking. Oct 13, 2002 · Figure 8, if used in "Rappel" mode with the biner clipped through the small hole, can slip down over the gate of the biner. Is this an issue with just like a 30’ rappel? Or just with 100’+ rappels? 2. They are very similar, but the ATS has more levels of friction and isn't limited to a couple types of carabiners. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. You won’t regret it! Apr 24, 2020 · AOKWIT ATC Descender 2. In caving, racks and similar devices are more common. Some gear manufacturers have versions that stray from the original, such as more square-shaped holes or ears on the sides, but they all operate under the same principles. With your right hand, grab the loose rope leading to the ground. There are many devices, but the most common devices in canyoneering are figure 8, ATC, Pirana, and ATS (device). I'd avoid the regular ATC or figure 8. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. In this video I highlight alternatives to the Madrock Safeguard for one stick climbing and rappelling. I Fast and easy loading, the Black Diamond Super 8 belay/rappel device uses a unique design that eliminates excess material by thinning out the non-rope bearing areas. It's not at mine, but your gym might be different. This spotter can guide you down and around any unforeseen obstacles. Watch the following video for a quick demo and discussion Feb 12, 2023 · Here's a few tips on using the figure 8 rappel device to make sure you don't lose control. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions Choose Your Belay Device for Climbing or Mountaineering Petzl makes different belay devices for different disciplines: belay devices with cam-assisted blocking provide a comfortable belay experience, and manual belay/rappel devices allow the user to rappel on two rope strands. I still have several, some with ears some without, i still use them. Next behind those is the ATC XP. This will be the break and is supported by the ATC. 3 and 0. 7 and 11mm (0. Its simple and versatile design make it popular. Aug 3, 2018 · Subscribed 8. In the quest for a simpler and more idiot proof method of rappelling, I made the trip to REI and bought a black diamond figure 8, atc, a sterling hollowblock, and some 7mm cord. In rappelling: Jul 8, 2016 · I happened to see the video in about how to use an F8 as an ascending tool which inspired me to use the ATC for the same purpose. For example, in a canyoneering setting, figure 8 rappel devices are often utilized. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! Reply reply Gildor_Helyanwe • I use a gri gri for belaying (lead, top rope) I carry an ATC as a backup and for rappelling. ) Rigging an extended rappel (not shown) or using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device is a fine idea, because both of these can be easily converted to an ascending system if needed, as we cover here and here. Nov 14, 2024 · It is commonly used in activities like rock climbing, mountaineering, caving, canyoning, and rescue operations to safely descend cliffs, rock faces, or other vertical surface Rappelling involves lowering oneself down a climbing rope, differing from belaying, where the rope moves while the belayer remains stationary. This video was made with a saddle hunter in mind and shows how to safely transition from a tree tether, tied off with a prusik cord, to a figure 8 or other device for a rappel down the tree once Jun 2, 2024 · 8 - Advanced Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) - If you’re using a plaquette style belay device such as a Black Diamond ATC Guide, an extended rappel lets you easily “flip the plaquette” to ascend the rope. 1. Figure 8 rappel device Figure 8 was primarily designed as rappelling equipment, but can also be used for protection, and as such is presented by most manufacturers. You can give a belay, or rappel. The knots which cause the issue rappelling act as a secondary rope system should the ascender fail or cut the rope. atc = normal tube device atc-xp = normal tube device with a high friction side atc-xp guide = atc-xp with an auto-block feature for bringing up seconds figure 8 is a rappel device that you can also belay with but I wouldn't advise it. Stay tuned until the end to see what I'm using today and why. Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? My local climbing course taught the first XINDA XD8602 Climbing Rescue Figure 8 Descender with Bent-ear Rappelling Gear Belay Device Journey to the Light · Richard Harvey 6. Jun 21, 2021 · my Figure Eight rappel method for saddle hunting phatkaw's adventures 282 subscribers Subscribed Rappelling (a. Climbers can control rope descent and arrest falls by creating friction between the device and the rope. Fig8 twists the rope badly both on rappel, and on belay, unless you use it like an ATC. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. Yes. cmcpro. In a rock climbing setting, tubular or assisted braking devices can be deployed to rappel. Jun 17, 2013 · The figure-8 Sealy is talking about is a friction device used to rappel, not the double figure-8 knot that climbers use to tie in (aka, figure-8 follow through). This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. There are no moving pieces, they are extremely lightweight, and they are generally the most affordable of the belay devices. Oct 26, 2021 · Although I really need to try out phatkaw’s figure 8 method. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. The AUTO STOP mode similar to figure 8s does provide some utility. This video shows how to double wrap a single strand of rope onto your figure 8 rappel device in order to add more friction to control your descent. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. Just got the ATS, but I think I'm going to like it more than my Pirana. Choose Your Belay Device for Climbing or Mountaineering Petzl makes different belay devices for different disciplines: belay devices with cam-assisted blocking provide a comfortable belay experience, and manual belay/rappel devices allow the user to rappel on two rope strands. I demonstrate how to use an ATC, a figure 8 and the Ma Tie a Mule Hitch above the Figure 8. I’ve read on climbing sites that rappelling with a figure 8 causes twists in the rope, and might damage with long term use or at the least give you trouble when packing up the rope. Most people who have a Gri-gri also have an ATC for double rope rappel and rarely use their ATC for anything else. Never ever let go of the rope with the break hand. Aug 30, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? As a backup for rappelling Perhaps the most obvious reason to carry a Prusik is to use it as a “third hand” or backup while rappelling. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Up to around 9,5-10mm ropes the fig-8 has more braking power than the ATC-XP, the actual ATC is worse. Thanks fo Figure 8 Belay Devices Typically used for rappelling and in search and rescue efforts, a figure 8 device also works for belaying. Always read the manufacturer's directions to find out if your current belay device is approved for rappel. Take your weight off the rappel rope. Dec 16, 2022 · The ATC’s lightweight and minimalist design relies on two slots for belaying or rappelling with two ropes. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Always ensure to double-check compatibility and safety for these uses. My question is would an ATC be adequate for the job, and are there benefits to a figure 8 over an ATC for canyon raps? The most common form of this kind of tubular belay device is the ATC, an acronym for "air traffic control". It has several friction settings, so the correct friction for the rope/canyoneer/situation can usually be found… Mechanism[edit] Rappel descent is controlled by the use of a descent device. I demonstrate how to use an ATC, a figure 8 and the Ma Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Mar 14, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In my pack I keep an old figure 8 as it isn't heavy and useful. 4 in). Jul 15, 2010 · It is rare to see climbers belaying or rappelling with a Figure 8 these days, especially since 8s have been known to break through the sleeve of a locked carabiner (cross loading). For my personal use I have fallen in love with the ATS made by Sterling. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. This year, due to wear, I replaced my rappel rope with a 9mm canyoneering static line May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. If I roll with an ATC or a figure 8 and a smaller diameter rope it’ll probably help with that. 3 days ago · The figure 8 belay device, also known as the figure 8 descender and figure 8 rappel device, is a metal piece shaped as 8 with one small end and one small end. Even when there is a down climb, the descent can be dangerous and fraught with loose rock or other perils. My rappel rope is my tether at hunting height and my GriGri is on from the get go. ATC ascender set_up F8 in sit_mode F8 in descend_mode F8 in ascend_mode when used in conjunction with A&D ascender Jul 9, 2025 · In contrast, when rappelling with ATC, it holds a climber while they ascend or descend the wall, thus belaying a climber to prevent a probable fall and rappelling down the route. I have 9mm C-IV rappel rope that I also plan on using as tether as I Nov 29, 2006 · Looking back over the past year, I've been using at least 4 different ones depending on the type of climbing and diameter of rope (s): Grigri, ATC-Guide, ATC-XP, Mini-Reverso. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. com/c/clutch/Introducing the all-new CLUTCH, the For this video, we're kicking off the series talking about the simple figure 8 rappel device. . 1K Dislike Jan 14, 2018 · A quick guide to the differences between the figure of 8 vs the rescue 8 rappel device. The figure 8 rappel device is the tool to keep you safe and in control of the speed while you are rappelling. Figure 8’s tend to twist the rope and it is commonly accepted that tube style devices provide superior handling. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. kbt ayw ybiyjo hcv fkyj qjtiy qxpo ypp jxsfe njg