Sling vs cordelette anchor reddit. Another guy here mentioned snow, which is a great point.

Sling vs cordelette anchor reddit. Dec 9, 2008 · The most common was to use 120cm slings to equalize the anchors (either 1 or 2 slings depending on the distance of runners) and attaching the climber to them via their ropes. Hey guys, I've been leading in the gym for a while now and am just getting into climbing outside. If I need to adjust the length of a 3 point anchor like this, I can either double my cord, or take the fishermans and either make an overhand or better yet an alpine butterfly right above it to get rid of some slack. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. Sep 4, 2011 · For cleaning sport/fixed anchors or staging single or multi-pitch raps I clip into the anchor with 1 or 2 slings or a personal anchor girth hitched to my harness. In some situations trying to clean an anchor and retie in with only a quickdraw's length between you and the anchor would be a total pain in the ass. All of your Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. But here's my take. 4-Point trad anchor building with cordelette. Oct 24, 2018 · Many climbers consider the cordelette a standard piece of gear, as it lets you quickly connect two or more points of protection into a redundant, non-extending, and fairly well distributed anchor. Always thought 7mm was standard. Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Cords usually have two portions, a sheath and a core. My question is: Given two fixed bolts, would it be better to use a Quad or two quickdraws to build an anchor? I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. Webbing, Dyneema sling, or static rope for tying around a natural anchor for better abrasion resistance? Hey guys. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). that's just noise. ” The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. What would be a typical length of cordelette for an anchor and masterpoint system at a trad multi-pitch belay station when switching leads? 20 feet? I am looking to practice a few types of systems so I am familiar with the knots, locker locations, etc. All this with very little extra weight. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Lead up Build a cordelette anchor Either clove into the master ur use a sling/pas to clip into the masterpoint/shelf Since you wont be lead belaying its fine if you want to simply clip in for speed vs. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. If you want I can send you photo but later in day when I come home. This is not accurate. > Advantages of one made from cord: It's got a little bit of give, so can absorb some shock on the belay (although you should still treat it as static). I am purchasing a set of Djinn Axess quickdraws and already have everything to construct a cordelette anchor. If I decided to get a back up, I'd have no issue getting the MS3. (I do actually also carry 6mm tech cord in old school cordelette form most of the time on long multipitch with gear anchors, especially when there are ledges with natural features to sling/tie off or the pitches are true rope-stretchers. It takes a lot of slings (and carabiners, if you don't trust slings girth-hitched together) to make an anchor on a boulder the size of a Beetle, but only one cordalette. Jun 7, 2024 · Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. Learn how to make a three-piece trad anchor using a quad or traditional overhand-knot technique. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Like you, I mostly anchor with the rope. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine. Top rope forces really should never come anywhere close to blowing a piece, but equalization over minimal extension! Dec 18, 2014 · With ropes, belay devices, cordelette, and slings crowding the anchor, it’s easy for this important setup to become an overcomplicated rat’s nest. Reply reply More replies Individual-Channel65 • A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. People are talking about using (non-)lockers, cordelette/sling, pas/cloving. To create one on the cheap it can be made from 7mm or thicker accessory cord (perlon) tied in a loop with a triple fisherman's knot (as for double fishermans, but with an extra stopper knot on each side). They are also light for alpine stuff. What do you use, and why do you like it? This is more about personal preference/ease of use/speed, less so about safety 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot chest harness runner, 1 15ft untied runner, belay device, 1 rap ring, 1 PAS, and 1 set of texas kickers with 1 purcell extendable anchor. My biggest complaint with Sling are: The format of the guide sucks. Virtually no weight, no bulk, and you can build almost any anchor that you can with cordelette. Many use 7mm cord (myself included). This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. If I'm leading block pitches or don't want to use my rope as the anchor for whatever reason, I've started carrying two or three 120cm dyneema slings over my shoulder and leaving the cordelette at home. +1 for powercord. Jan 24, 2011 · There was always redundancy in the anchor by using two separate slings tied to separate trees and equalized by wrapping the trees. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. As with a static cordelette, if one arm is longer than another, the longer arm will take less of the load. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Most likely won't be swapping leads. People will tie a clove with the cordelette they use to one or two of the pieces they use when building the anchor and leave one or two other pieces with just a typical bight and then do an overhand or fig-8 for the master point. Having said that, I like 20-22 ft of 7mm for a cordelette. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also pick up? Thanks as always! To build a composite quad, follow the following steps: Create the quad or sliding X between components 1A and 1B first. 5kn 7mm is between 13. Of note, we generally travel in a 3 man team and tend to be extra cautious and carry more than we need, hence why we wanted to see your lists! I've seen this a couple of times without explanation. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. Both are about as cheap as climbing equipment gets and they both have their place. A Purcell is also just a cordelette that can be untied and used as an anchor if need be. Those four strands should be just the same size as a shoulder sling, so that way it's easy to carry over your shoulder. You got to be confident no what you are doing and have good arguments for your choices, no matter what they are. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. Mar 3, 2025 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and self-equalizing quad anchor Bluewater does make a 7mm dynamic prusik cord which could be used to make a cordelette, however a dynamic cordelette absolutely will not provide improved equalisation. Discuss! [repost from mountain project] comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions [removed] Reply JohnWesely • Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on the wall If you’ve been paying attention at the crag or to social media, you might have seen a girth hitch used as the masterpoint of a belay anchor—like, tied in the cordelette or sling the masterpoint locker is clipped to. Im usually pretty critical of Sling, but I do think Sling is the least worst option available. The fact that you aren't charged for local TV rebroadcast fees and regional sports fees, is a huge savings. He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Completely agree with this. Cordlette is very useful for multi pitch climbing of any sort as you can typically use one to equalize 3 anchors. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. And your comment "I've just flung a huge sling or two over a massive boulder (1 piece, no redundancy, oh god!) and called it good" made me smile because I do the same. Climb on dudes and dudettes! sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Yes, This. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. upvote for something new Thanks for your comments. The slings would either be equalized as in the case of the cordelette (the sling drew down between each piece and tied in an overhand) or by using the sliding-X technique. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). I don't use a quad, equalette or ACR If you don't have this chance because of sharp edges than you can make anchor on base with sling tied with "tie knot" or one part of rope ended on both sides with figure 8 or 6 and than conected with HMS carabiner for anchor, for rope. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. If my anchor pieces are spread (and my grey sling is in use), I'll do a v-clove anchor with a blue sling, and/or extend a placement with an alpine. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). 3). The cordelette is just a large sling, 6 or so metres in length. " Ropes are getting skinnier and skinnier, and with 7. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. I know knots will be used to limit extension, isolate other pieces, but in the case of The price on the MS4 sling is a little high, but I spent about as much on the Peak Design sling, and I didn't find that one nearly as comfortable, and I got tired of the anchor mounts banging against my camera and scratching it up. See full list on rei. I wondered if its true, so I want to ask you all Do any of I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. You often "I've stated that my personal belief is that lashing in with the rope or with a cordelette or slings is almost always good enough, the exceptions being when the anchor placements are crap and you have to run the rope off the belay without getting in some pro immediately. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. Hi all, anybody have any thoughts regarding the differences in usefulness/safety between a cordelette and a daisy chain (especially as personal anchor slings?) The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. I use it for my cordelette anchors and chalk bag strap in case I need extra bail gear on a multi-pitch. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Fold your cordelette in half and secure the two loops on one end to the master point (small locking carabiner) of your first quad or sliding X. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. With a sling in each chain or a sling/draw combo I'm redundant and not super worried about the shock load (assuming I'm equalized). Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. com Mar 23, 2020 · > A Cordelette will usually be longer, meaning you can equalise more pieces of gear or gear that is further apart. An equalette or cordelette (cordalette?) would have Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. As such, I use the 5. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". A rethreaded is what you tie in to your harness, although in your case you're using an additional rope (as others pointed out, this can be super dangerous) A Flemish bend is the correct way to join two ropes in this instance. Please check out John Long's Climbing Anchors 3rd edition. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. How to build a trad anchor Not all belay stances are bolted. I went with cordellete instead of a dyneema sling because of all the safety reasonings. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. Just curious. I probably use two redundant slings as a Sliding X as my most common one, but sometimes it's the cordelette, sometimes (but rarely), it's bunny ears figure 8 with the rope. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. You need slings for alpine draws (and maybe securing yourself where using the rope isn't the best) anyway, you need cordelette for rescue systems anyway, both have their use in different situations and you should know how to rig an anchor with anything you have on hand. Jul 6, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Two cordalettes (or equalettes or whatever) wouldn't add to your weight when leading as one is left at the belay. You can buy regular slings this length too. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. 5 can vary from 0. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Sling recently made some modest improvements to their app, but there is still work to be done. Obviously you're already getting most of that benefit from the dynamic rope. So buying a cordelette to build a quad is kind of like saying you're getting a boat with snow tires. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. The knots stay in the sling for at least the entire day. Proper equalization of the pieces in the anchor is FAR more important than minimizing extension in the event that a piece fails. But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. I recognize cordelette can be more versatile, but it's not worth the bulk for me. Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. Whether the maker is calling it "Cordelette" or "Accessory" doesn't really tell you much; though it may intend to mean one is a good fit for anchor rigging, the other could be a good fit for other purposes. 1mm double rope, has anyone cut one up into cordalette? It seems it would offer much better dynamics properties for anchors, much better long term durability from knotting stress, as well as a higher breaking strength than traditional polyester/nylon cordalette. cloving, just make sure the sling has minimal slack at all times She gets up and cloves into the master with the rope Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I slung my big bro with the bluewater titan cord. Another failure would be if one anchor point failed, a quad without limiter knots would suddenly lengthen (extension) which could cause a "shockload" in select circumstances. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. If one piece is too far away, simply use a sling to extend it. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. . Far be it from me to tell anyone besides my partner how they should climb. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. I'm not saying you always have to use a sling or cordelette, but if the only available anchors are spaced far back from the cliff edge and if you insist on using an indirect belay, surely it is better to extend the anchor with a single strand of rope rather that this mess of attaching an addition 5 strands of rope to your tie-in knot. Learn how to set pro and use appropriate natural protection. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. I usually just bring one cordalette and a double length sling plus an extra shoulder length sling or two for an anchor if I'm going to lead every pitch. I mentioned early on that I was specifically addressing "trad climbing gear anchors" because I thought that someone would immediately apply what I wrote to a two 8mm is standard size for cordelette, and used day-in, day-out for anchoring. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. It’s not that complicated, you don’t pull out or replace gear you just clip your rope, long sling or cordelette directly to the existing pieces of the anchor wether they’re bolts or gear it doesn’t really matter and build your set up underneath so your leader can just unclip and go. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Later on in my climbing history, I began using static rope for the anchors. The MS3 is very similar and almost half the price. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Carrying gear It’s quick and easy to attach all of your carabiners and climbing equipment to one Make sure to read about these useful cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I first started out on my climbing and hiking adventures. A lot of the issues with the other thread was people calling things the wrong fucking thing and providing information that was both incorrect and confusing. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. I think I use around a 60cm sling which works out well. What are some advantages? Fairly inexpensive (especially compared to a 240 cm Dyneema sling, which some climbers prefer over a standard cordelette) You can cut it up and leave it for rappel anchors I have never really landed on a specific anchor type for when I've got two solid bolts for an anchor. 20 extra feet of cord has come in super handy for me enough times in weird situations - for ascending, system shenanigans, sketchy fixed stations, longer-than For a gear anchor, or a two bolt anchor with additional gear to back up sketchy bolts, I like using at least three pieces even if each piece is absolutely bomber, so the simple single sling sliding X with limiter knots wouldn't apply there (I'd use an equalette as pictured above, or the pre-equalized cordelette that is pretty much standard Voi la, you have a cordelette and can use it to (kind of) equalize three anchors. 5. For a Prusik I carry a bluewater 7mm VT Prusik. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. I'd appreciate some of your insights. 8kn vs 12. Oct 29, 2023 · My suggestion would be start with a cordelette because it is cheap, durable, and versatile. If you read the climbing anchors books, you'll get a reasoned argument why a cordelette isn't going to truly equalize your anchor, but in practice, it's close enough as long as you tie it while loading it in the direction of pull. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. If you move into multi pitch and alpine you may want to swap it for a 240 which is more compact. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. 3 to 0. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • A cordelette, however, offers a lot of redundancy without the need of two slings, and has no extension in the event of partial anchor failure. Popular anchors will link carabiners to anchor points by using either multiple slings or a sling tied into a climbing knot to split it in to redundant connection points. Feb 2, 2018 · In this video we review considerations for building a traditional anchor with slings, in the case where a cordalette is not available. The downside is that the anchor has a pre-determined direction of equalization that cannot be adjusted without retying the Cordelette. Also, I fail to see how a couple knots in a cordelette would yield a significant weight difference than a PAS. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Oct 6, 2009 · Paul there are different materials that can go into a product. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. I like that also but my powercord gets more use, of the two I hate cordelette also. I know this topic has often been discussed but you'd be surprised at how difficult it was to find proper arguments when googling. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. If rigging a quad here, you will need a 120 cm sling or two 60 cm slings in parallel. Can't make a good bollard with a single length sling. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! Sep 1, 2023 · We tested climbing slings and runners from Mammut, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling and others to find the absolute best Tying in with PAS/Sling vs Rope at Anchor for Multipitch Hey, I was having this discussing this a climbing buddy recently who likes to tie in with 2 slings. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. The knots subtract, but the loops add more back. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. Keep your belay orderly with this effortless technique: using the “shelf. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. Setting up anchors Slings are perfect for connecting climbing anchor systems. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Assume a 3 points anchor. Just found this community and think it's rad. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Any thoughts? Btw. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. That said, anchoring is a generally static thing, apart from an anchor blowing I don't plan on whipping on my PAS. prior taking a class this weekend. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. A neat new Idea that I haven't seen, but it's kind of handy having a pre-knotted cordelette for other things such as slinging a large feature or boulder. I recommend one of each and find your own style with which one you prefer for different scenarios. Just getting into multi pitch trad and was wondering what was your preferred anchor material? I have followed some easy routes before and seen accessory cords, ropes and equalizer slings used and I like the rope method. It needs an update. /5. In most anchoring situations you will have 4 to 6 loops. Remember, you have at least one loop, making two strands. Another guy here mentioned snow, which is a great point. Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - what length and diameter? If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. gri deme fmggfg tes bdu jox jsqc tmmh iqcva ghs